Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1995选这款酒的好朋友Di算得上绝对的点酒内行人,老年份有点吃不准?直接电话最熟悉酒庄的内行人:“刚刚开过,也换过塞,没有premox,完全没有问题!”这说的是没有Premature oxidation 过早氧化,倒出来仍是酒色动人,比1995感觉还要新个10来年!这背标上也写的清清楚楚:2020年2月,酒庄用惰性气体保护。1995年份,是已经当了建筑师20多年,40多才回家接手家业的Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière的第二个年份!老先生的父亲在1970年代开创了酿酒温控的先河,可谓是根正苗红,就算那会不算懂酿酒理论,也是有着最好的酿酒基础的。众所周知,Corton山是勃艮第少见的圆顶,也就是说整个产区允许有不同的朝向,所以Bonneau du Martray是该产区少见的面西葡萄园,也就保证了非常出色的成熟度。这种差距在普遍不够熟的年份特别突出。杏仁、榛子、香草,山楂花、这酒有种惊人的克制力量,如刀片般锋利内敛,下面又是华丽丽的丰富… 非凡的果实纯度与桶陈的结合,烟熏感恰到好处,矿物质感同样极具辨识度,精准的纯粹与张力,能在四两拨千斤间轻易俘获人心。好比看似老先生在葡萄园闲庭信步,每一步里都压着沉甸甸的故事和内敛不外露的气度。柔滑,极其平衡优雅,令人钦佩的悠长回甘就好似先生离去后脑海中久久仍在的身影…Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière
02
# 勃艮第 # 勒桦阿婆 后花园 黄头 金滴默尔索
Domaine d’Auvernay Meursault Les Gouttes d’Or 一级园 2005
关于这支酒,我不知道它是何时开始飙升价格起来的,但是其实毫无悬念。Lalou-Bize Leroy阿婆在世界酒圈的知名度简直堪比伊丽莎白女王,她可是一出生就被爹爹用1929年份的 Le Musigny在嘴唇上“洗礼”过的女人,如今手下酿过了60多个年份,89岁的高龄还活跃第一线简直无人能及!而“后花园”这名字也取得尤其之妙:这农场很早就属于Henri Leroy 家族产业,葡萄园只有零星4公顷,遍布在16个不同产区(2012年购入Batard Montrachet Grand Cru),于1988年被今日的阿婆与姐姐Pauline共同继承,并在一开始就在葡萄园推行着百分百的生物动力农耕,Lalou-Bize Leroy女生在早年已故丈夫Marcel Leroy的帮助下共同打理。1988年正是DRC产业风云突变的前夕,由于窥伺已久vosne村名家Charles Noellat开始没落的葡萄园,没多久就出了Maison Leroy(酒商公司)1/3股权被卖给了日资日本高岛屋的事情,这在当时可是震惊勃艮第。不过也就是这样,如今的Domaine Leroy (自有酒庄)才能拥有如此这般眼花缭乱的特级园加上几十个优质产区。在我眼里Leroy女士是位出色的马基雅维利主义者,但这些同时也成就了她一生注定成为勃艮第最伟大酿酒人之一的事实。后来当然酒庄的股权整个还是被阿婆从姐姐手里买回来,所以d’Auvernay 是名副其实的阿婆后花园。
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